Every diver knows that feeling. That moment when you get a new piece of gear. Shiny, perfectly functional, with that typical scent of newness. And then comes the worst moment – first contact with salt or even fresh water, sand, mud, or chlorine. But that’s just part of diving. What we can control, however, is how long our equipment stays in top condition.
Quality diving gear isn’t cheap – you’ll easily spend a fortune on a regulator, BCD, and wetsuit. But with a bit of care, all this can last maybe twice as long. Can you imagine how much money you’ll save by getting the most out of your suit? Let’s take a look at some tips on how to care for your gear so it won’t let you down when you need it most.
First and Most Important Rule: Rinse, and Then Rinse Again!
If you remember just one thing from this entire article, let it be this: After every dive, thoroughly rinse everything with fresh water. Sounds trivial, right? But this “triviality” can extend the life of your equipment by years.
Salt water is an incredibly sneaky beast. It can get everywhere and gradually destroys even materials that look bulletproof. Chlorinated pool water eats away at neoprene and rubber. And mud or sand from our quarries? That’s another story – it gets into every thread and slowly wears everything down.
A thorough rinse should come as soon as possible after a dive – ideally the same day. Most diving resorts have tanks with clean water specifically for this purpose.
Care for Your Regulator and Octopus – Your Life Insurance
Your regulator is a device that your life literally depends on, so pay special attention to its maintenance.
After each dive:
- Put the dust cap on the first stage before rinsing to prevent water from getting inside
- Rinse with lukewarm water, never hot (it can damage the seals)
- Flush the second stage by pressing the purge button and letting water flow through
- Let it dry in the shade, hung so that water can freely drain
Several times per season:
- Soak the entire regulator (with the dust cap on) in lukewarm water with a drop of dish soap
- Let it soak for 30 minutes
- Rinse thoroughly with clean water
- Spray silicone spray designed for diving equipment on moving parts and seals
Once a year:
- Have your regulator professionally serviced by an authorized technician
- Even if you haven’t used it at all! Rubber seals degrade over time
BCD – Your Underwater Home
Your BCD is the second most important piece of equipment that provides buoyancy and carries other gear.
After each dive:
- Partially fill the BCD with fresh water through the inflation hose
- Close the dump valve, shake the BCD and slosh the water inside to reach all the folds
- Open the dump valve and let the water drain
- Repeat this process 2-3 times
- Fill the BCD with air and let it dry inflated
- Don’t dry in direct sunlight, UV radiation damages the material
Regular maintenance:
- Check all pockets for small items that might have been left behind
- Check seams, straps, and buckles for signs of wear
- Lubricate zippers with silicone lubricant designed for diving equipment
- Once a year, have your BCD checked at a service center for leaks
Wetsuit and Drysuit – Your Second Skin
A quality diving suit with good care can last many years. Here’s how to do it:
After each dive:
- Turn the wetsuit inside out and thoroughly rinse both sides
- Hang on a wide hanger (not wire!) in the shade
- Never dry in the sun – UV radiation degrades neoprene
- Never dry on a radiator or other heat sources
- For drysuits, carefully rinse the zippers and treat them with specific lubricant
Long-term care:
- Store your wetsuit hanging on a wide hanger, never folded (it could crack at the fold points over time)
- Store in a dark, cool, and dry environment
- Regularly clean drysuit zippers with a soft brush and apply special lubricant
- Keep neck and wrist seals on drysuits powdered with talc to prevent hardening and cracking
Repairs:
- Small tears in neoprene can be repaired with special neoprene glue
- The sooner you repair a tear, the better – you’ll prevent it from getting larger
- Drysuit seals should be changed by a professional, but in an emergency, you can do it yourself with quality glue and a new seal
Fins, Mask, and Snorkel – Basics We Often Neglect
These basic components are often overlooked, yet with proper care, you can significantly extend their lifespan.
Mask:
- Rinse in fresh water after each dive
- Dry away from direct sunlight
- Apply anti-fog solution to the glass (or spit and spread it around – the good old solution)
- Store in a hard case to protect the glass from scratches and the silicone edge from deformation
Fins:
- Rinse in fresh water, focus on springs and mechanisms in adjustable fins
- Dry in the shade
- Store flat, not standing on the tips (they could warp)
- Never expose to direct sunlight for long periods, fins would lose elasticity
Snorkel:
- Rinse inside and outside with fresh water
- Pay attention to valves, if your snorkel has them
- Check the mouthpiece for cracks – replace a worn one promptly
Dive Computer – Your Electronic Buddy
Modern dive computers are durable but still require care:
- Rinse with fresh water after each dive
- Regularly replace the battery cover seal (usually when replacing the battery)
- Keep battery contacts clean from corrosion
- Regularly check the strap or watch band for signs of wear
- Have the battery replaced by a professional once every 1-2 years to maintain water resistance
Treatment and Storage After the Season
If you dive seasonally, proper preparation of equipment for a longer “sleep” is also important:
- Thorough cleaning – clean all components more thoroughly than usual
- Regulator – have it serviced before storage
- BCD – leave it partially inflated so the inner surfaces don’t touch and stick together
- Wetsuits and suits – store hanging, never folded
- Batteries – remove from devices you won’t use for a long time
- Storage environment – dry, cool, and dark place with no UV exposure
- Protection against rodents – especially neoprene can attract mice that love to chew on them
Maintenance Myths That Do More Harm Than Good
Myth 1: “The warmer the water for rinsing, the better”
Reality: Hot water can damage seals and accelerate material degradation. Use lukewarm or cold water.
Myth 2: “Drying in the sun speeds up the process and kills bacteria”
Reality: UV radiation dramatically shortens the lifespan of almost all diving materials. Always dry in the shade.
Myth 3: “After diving in fresh water, it’s not necessary to rinse equipment”
Reality: Even fresh water contains microorganisms, minerals, and impurities that can damage equipment. Rinsing is always necessary.
Myth 4: “Silicone spray is a universal solution for all components”
Reality: Some materials are damaged by silicone spray. Only use special lubricants designed for specific components.
Investment in Care Pays Off
Sure, it seems like a lot of work and a nuisance after a fun day in the water. But the basic stuff won’t hold you up more than fifteen minutes after a dive. And what do you get for it? Equipment that lasts for years without failures, and most importantly, won’t fail on you 30 meters below the surface.
Let me tell you something – I know a guy who throws all his wet gear into his car trunk after every sea dive. Regulator, BCD, camera, everything. And then he wonders why he has to buy new stuff every year and why something occasionally fails him underwater. Such nonsense, right? By the way, fifteen minutes of maintenance right after a dive will save you thousands of dollars and maybe some serious stress underwater.